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Wheat You Can Eat...And Drink

Today we are excited to showcase another wonderful local partner of ours - One Mighty Mill. Our collaborative IPA, Past, Present, Pretzel, is newly canned and ready for you to taste, but the story is more than just a beer release.

Located just north of Boston in the town of Lynn, One Mighty Mill is a different kind of bakery than you may be used to. The delicious bagels, pretzels and tortillas that they churn out are all made from wheat that’s grown pesticide-free in Linneaus, Maine then milled right on site in Lynn. Upon hearing about their “Wheat You Can Eat” we were intrigued to learn more about the process and see if we might be able to work together - so we headed up North to watch and sample.

Co-Founder and Head Baker Tony Rosenfeld - the Mill looks out on Exchange Street in downtown Lynn

Co-Founder and Head Baker Tony Rosenfeld - the Mill looks out on Exchange Street in downtown Lynn

The approach that the One Mighty Mill team takes is exceptional because their farming and milling processes preserve the wheat’s bran and germ - nutrient dense parts of the plant that industrially-processed flour is stripped of for the sake of shelf-stability. At the same time, the sustainable growing techniques practiced in Maine preserve chemical-free crops and work to bring wheat farming back to the region. The baked goods and flour that the OMM team are bringing to Massachusetts don’t just taste good, they’re better for us - the energy at the mill and bakery are living proof of that.  

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Chef Tony’s eponymous mill is an important part of creating fresh, nutrient dense wheat flour. The trade-off is that stone milling is not entirely efficient - a small part of the bran is unable to be broken down by the mill, and becomes a byproduct of the process. This material, called “middlings”, is dense in protein and micronutrients, and the One Mighty Mill team was determined to keep it in the food system rather than dispose of it. The idea to use the middlings as a beer ingredient came from Farmer Matt Williams of Maine, a friend of One Mighty Mill’s who has helped bring wheat farming back to New England. After speaking with the OMM team, we decided to try incorporating middlings into the mash step of brewing, where the starches can be converted and the bran can perform like raw wheat would. Our lab team tested extraction, starch conversion and flavor presentation prior to brewing, and positive results led to the use of middlings in Permutation 75, a Belgian IPA brewed at Trillium Fort Point. We also incorporated One Mighty Mill’s wheat middles into our recipe for The Six States stout as a part of our New England showcase. Happy with our results so far, we set out to create a concept for a larger scale recipe.

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Which brings us to Past, Present, Pretzel. This IPA features a hefty amount of wheat middlings from One Mighty Mill along with Two Row (our standard pale malt), while the hop bill is 100% Citra. The team from One Mighty Mill took their own field trip down to Trillium Canton to check out our brewery and help us add the feature product.

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Through this delicious collaboration we celebrate conservation and a symbiotic relationship between miller and brewer. The project started with wheat grown in Maine and milled in Mass (“past”), it became a juicy, crisp IPA that you’re drinking or soon to drink (“present”), and post-brew-day we sent the spent grain back up to Lynn for the baking crew to make pretzels out of (“pretzel”). Along with showcasing a fun and engaging new recipe, we hope Past, Present, Pretzel gives us all a chance to think about local systems and economies that are supported by creative conservation.

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Earlier Event: March 28
Making New Homes in Familiar Places